They're the two islands of the Tuscan Archipelago you can reach in a day from the Argentario, but they're profoundly different. Giglio is an island to walk, inhabited, with three villages and real restaurants. Giannutri is an island to swim, wild, almost uninhabited, with coves whose seabeds are among the richest in the Mediterranean.
Among the three of us there's even a small division: Massimiliano always says Giannutri: he likes the silence and the seabeds. Sabina always says Giglio: she likes the village, lunch at the harbour, the "complete" day. Ale depends on the wind: if the maestrale turns, Giannutri gets ruined and we go to Giglio.
If you only have one day and have to pick one, they're both stunning: what matters is what you're looking for in that day.
The differences in three lines
| Giglio | Giannutri | |
|---|---|---|
| Character | Lively, inhabited, "Tuscan island" | Wild, silent, "reserve island" |
| What you do best | Walk, eat, see villages | Swim, snorkel, dive |
| Time on land | Several hours (lunch + tour) | Few hours (coves, short walk) |
| Crowds in high season | Considerable (July-August) | Very low (limited landings) |
| Distance from Argentario | ~14 km (45 min by RIB) | ~13 km (30 min by RIB) |
| Lunch on land | Yes, restaurants in Giglio Porto and Campese | Limited to Cala Spalmatoio |
When to choose Giglio
Giglio is the right island if your group includes people who also want to step ashore. Giglio Castello, the medieval village perched above the island, is one of the most beautiful in coastal Tuscany. Giglio Campese has the red-sand beach and the characteristic towers. Giglio Porto is the colourful port, with restaurants on the water.
A typical day at Giglio in a RIB:
- Morning: sailing and a swim at Cannelle or Cala delle Caldane.
- Lunch: docking at Giglio Porto, a seafood meal in the alleys, coffee.
- Afternoon: snorkeling at the Scole or Punta del Fenaio, last swim.
- Return at sunset.
What makes Giglio special:
- The water at Cala delle Cannelle has a turquoise colour that, from the boat, looks fake.
- The Scole seabeds (the rocks in front of the harbour) are a classic for snorkeling: shallow water, lots of fish.
- Giglio Castello, if you make it up there, is a punch in the gut: one of the most intact medieval villages in the archipelago.
A practical note about the Castle. You can walk up from Giglio Porto, but it's a serious climb: about an hour of trail in full sun, not trivial in July-August. There's a local bus, or you can take a taxi. On foot it's beautiful but only if you're fit and have proper shoes.
Giglio is not for you if:
- You want pure silence (in July-August the Porto is crowded).
- You're looking for an only-sea-no-land experience.
When to choose Giannutri
Giannutri is the younger sister, wild, part of the National Park of the Tuscan Archipelago in a strict protection zone. It has very few houses, no cars, two main coves (Cala Spalmatoio and Cala Maestra) and a silence that those coming from cities at first struggle to recognise.
Landing is regulated: the island accepts a limited number of visitors per day. That's the reason why, even in August, Giannutri stays liveable.
What makes Giannutri unique:
- The seabeds: some of the richest in the Tyrrhenian. Groupers, sea breams, octopuses, seahorses, and with a bit of luck Caretta caretta turtles (it's a nesting area).
- The Roman Villa of Domitian at Cala Maestra (visible from outside, the site is protected).
- The Capel Rosso Lighthouse at the southern tip: 360° view over the open sea.
- Scuba diving here is world-class: walls, caves, wrecks. On request we organise private dives in collaboration with Argentario Divers.
A typical day at Giannutri in a RIB:
- Morning: sailing and a swim at the Spiaggia dei Grottoni or in front of Cala Maestra.
- Snorkeling along the rocks: the water clarity at Giannutri is another planet.
- Lunch: bring your own food and we set the table on board, or a light meal at the Cala Spalmatoio restaurant.
- Afternoon: second stop in a different bay, last swim.
- Slow return, aperitivo at sea.
A gem: the September window. The seabeds at Giannutri between mid-September and mid-October are at their peak: the water is still warm, the light is oblique, the turtles are seen more, and the island empties out after the August holidays. It's the period anyone who knows these waters would choose.
Giannutri is not for you if:
- You're looking for life, restaurants, shopping, people.
- You have a group that gets bored if the day is just swimming (although usually the opposite happens).
And if I can't choose?
You can do a mixed tour in a day, but it means rushing. The point of these islands is their slow rhythm, and rushing through them in 6 hours betrays both.
If you have two days to dedicate to the sea, the perfect combination is:
- Day 1: Giannutri, for the silence and the seabeds.
- Day 2: Argentario coast or Giglio, for the coves and a stop on land.
If you only have one: choose based on the group. Family with kids who just want to swim? Giannutri. Couple or group of friends who also want a good lunch and a village to photograph? Giglio.
A tip from those who navigate them every day: the weather decides a lot. The two islands have different orientations and when the wind shifts, one is sheltered and the other isn't. On a private tour, the route can be adapted in the morning itself, based on how the day looks. That's exactly what we do with our guests: we leave knowing where we're going, but with the freedom to change if the sea asks us to.
